衣帽間｜奢侈品牌摯愛的白背心，確定不會穿成老頭汗衫？
讓人有些難以置信的是，白背心居然成為了設計師的新寵。 在剛剛過去不久的2022秋冬時裝週，白背心儼然已是出鏡率最高的單品之一。 Miuccia Prada和Raf Simons將倒三角標誌裝飾於胸口處，並用薄紗、蕾絲和亮面布料拼接而成的及膝裙來搭配，簡潔和繁複兩種手法碰撞出趣味效果。
葆蝶家Bottega Veneta新任創意總監Matthieu Blazy也是白背心的愛好者。 不同於普拉達Prada的疊加技巧，他選擇用更為輕鬆的藍色水洗牛仔褲來進行搭配。形像簡潔利落之時，由Intrecciato編織技法製成的手袋和鞋履成為整套造型中最構造最複雜的單品，重點隨即得到突出。
在Sacai和Acne Studios的秀場上，白背心則和寬大的下身服飾搭配。 阿部千登勢用緞面邊緣裝飾紗裝條紋白背心，同時搭配黑色闊腿長褲，形象幹練而強勢。 Acne Studios則將白色貫穿全身，高腰長褲中用搭扣腰帶裝飾，避免了大面積純色可能帶來的單調感。
考慮到這些單品通常要半年之後才在商店上架，心急的時尚愛好者們早早地將衣櫃裡的白背心拿了出來。畢竟最適合穿著白背心的春夏季節已經到來。 白背心是衣櫃中最常見的單品，在優衣庫和Gap等快時尚品牌的商店中即可買到。但這並不等於它就容易搭配。現實情況往往是，廓形越是簡單的單品，在搭配上需要花費的心思就越多。白背心穿不好，一不小心就會變成老頭汗衫。 回顧過往街拍，穿好白背心的最佳方式是為其搭上一件同樣時髦的外套。簡約西裝夾克是個不會出錯的選擇。 Bella Hadid用淺灰色長西裝夾克內搭白背心，穿出了帶有中性氣質的灑脫效果。 演員Barbara Valente用更厚重的黑色長大衣搭配白背心，非常適合這個穿太多會熱，穿太少卻又覺得冷的時刻。將白背心塞入長褲，再用腰帶進行點綴，即利落又帥氣，同時還能拉長腿部線條。
值得提到的是，儘管白背心在當下被眾多設計師青睞，其真正成為潮流單品的時間並不長。很長一段時間裡，白背心的功能和內衣類似，是居家私密場合的穿著。最早在公共場合穿著的背心或可追溯至20世紀初，當時的女性用一種造型更為保守的背心作為泳裝。但隨著社會思潮的變化，穿背心逐漸成為男性的專屬。一種說法是，早期來到美國的意大利移民熱衷於在從事體力勞動時穿著白背心，以免沾濕他們的外套。意大利移民在20世紀相當長的時間裡都是美國工人階級的代表。因此，白背心也和底層工人掛鉤，是極具階級色彩的穿著。
白背心的底層色彩反而讓其成為受到追逐。對於邊緣酷兒群體和女權主義者來說，這件帶有強烈男性氣質的單品是表達不滿和反叛態度的工具。而許多關注亞文化群體的先鋒設計師，也開始將白背心帶上延展台。和過去相比，白背心已經成為極具普適價值的單品。某種意義上，這即顯示出時代潮流和文化的變化，也是時裝影響社會觀念並推動多元價值觀發展的象徵。
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